At the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in Paris this month, Daniel Winn, the business director at Philadelphia-based chemical company, Inolex, said chemical companies need to find natural alternatives to silicone and emulsifiers such as soaps.
Mr. Winn urged chemical companies that make cosmetics ingredients to take into account the growing consumer demand for nature based personal care items.
Winn stressed that consumers want natural along with performance and sensory experience. The challenge, according to Winn, is to create such products and to keep in mind the ecological effects of the manufacturing process. In other words, it’s not enough to simply make natural products, there should be little waste and environmental stress during the process.
He admitted that much of what is on the market as “natural” now depends on soap, “which tends to have a high pH and to not be good for the skin.”
According to Winn, it is possible to get reasonable emulsion and reasonable sensory experience from an emulsion that does not have silicone or other sensory additives. He mentioned the use of vegetable oil along with a positively charged cationic emulsifier as an option.
Last year, Inolex released the first cationic material that was 100% renewable, completely non-petrochemical. The technology yields almost no waste and is made from only non-GMO fermentation chemistry and oil from the brassica plants using minimal processing.