A War is Being Waged on Your Face! | The Healthy Beauty Project -by Todra Payne

by Keri Lehmann

In the 1996 movie, The Truth About Cats and Dogs, there is a scene in which the lead character, Abby has a confrontation with a cosmetics sales woman in a department store. The sales woman informs Abby of a new moisturizer that “neutralizes the free radicals that attack the skin. She then asks her what her skin care regime is.

Abby, who is already struggling with societal pressures to be beautiful, sarcastically replies, “My regime? The regime from which the radicals are trying to get free? Are we selling face cream or staging a coup?”  I always thought that line was funny, and the woman in me wanted to give her a high-five for fighting “the system”-

Go Abby! But as I have grown older, and I am beginning to see the signs of battle on my own face, I am realizing that the cosmetics counter lady apparently got the “war on your face” memo, and was strategizing her line of defense…Smart lady.

In preparation for our line of defense against the Free Radical Regime that is picking a fight with our faces, (I’ll call them the F.R.R. for short…punks!), we are going to map out our own strategy.

Let’s begin with the Facts:

Our bodies are delicately balanced to fight against infection and environmental pollution through a system called pH (“potential of hydrogen” for those who MUST know). The system is based on a scale that measures from 1 to 14, one being highly acidic, fourteen being highly alkaline, and the Peace Treaty resting at 7. Sebum and sweat combine to create the first line of defense, the moat of the fortress, the Acid Mantle. They like to keep things on alert for enemy attacks by keeping the pH balance around 5.6 (not acidic enough to be offensive, but not chillin’ with a glass of white wine and fondue at the Geneva Convention, either)  I like to think of them like the Secret Service.

I was at a Memorial Day ceremony in D.C. one time where the president was delivering a speech, and I stood next to a Secret Service agent. He was polite and slightly (ONLY slightly) humored by my comments, but I could tell, that in a moment’s notice, he could have snapped. That’s how the Acid Mantle is, too. The Acid Mantle keeps watch for bacteria, and if invaded, destroys the offenders with its acid content.

Under the Acid Mantle lies the Stratum Corneum, our second line of defense. They are the bricks and mortar that comprise the fortress walls of our skin. These are the true martyrs in the army against the frr. The bricks of the Stratum Corneum are made of flattened dead skin, and the mortar is a lipid (oil) barrier. Together, they protect the skin by creating a barrier on top of new skin, constantly dying, shedding, and allowing room for the next group of martyrs to rise to the front lines. These guys take a hit for the team willingly, but are oftentimes forced (by you) to sacrifice too soon, causing complete chaos on the face. Can we say ZITS?  Eczema? Inflammation? Exactly.

Now, let’s take a look at our enemies.

Bacteria and environmental pollution, in the way of cigarette smoke, certain foods, poor air quality, uv rays, water, and harmful skin care products are considered Public Enemy # 1 to our skin.  These are the soldiers that wage war against our skin, and without our attention, they are very successful in their attempts. Here’s the deal:

• Certain foods may be alkaline in nature, but become acidic in the body, lowering the pH balance of the skin to become too acidic, which destroys the lipid layer (the mortar that holds the Stratum Corneum layer together), and allows for extreme dehydration of the skin. Cracks in the wall…Cracks in your skin.
• Skin care products that contain sulfates (most of them- CHECK YOUR LABELS) are too alkaline (enlisting at about 10 on the pH scale) for our skin and change the Ph balance pretty dramatically.  At a pH balance of 10, the Acid Mantle is rendered defenseless against bacteria, and cannot prevent the attack of the zits that are plotting to humiliate you.
• Smoke, UV rays, pollution, and water also disrupt the pH balance of the skin, and disrupt your plans for having a pretty complexion.
• Overuse of alpha-hydroxy acids, retinoids, and other acids cause the skin to be overly acidic as well, negating your attempt to provide nourishment to the skin.

So, What’s our plan of defense? We’re Staging a Coup!

1. Rebalance the Acid Mantle: Give a dishonorable discharge to your useless skin care products. No sulfates. No harsh detergents.  Choose cleansers and toners that have a pH of around 5- remember- you want to be slightly defensive, but not so defensive that you become offensive. Not too much acid! (but not too little either).
2. Eat foods that will aid in the balance: leafy green veggies, tomatoes, carrots, and fruits will serve your regime well, plus those foods are great for your figure, too! Go have a salad- it’s for the war effort!
3. Wear sunscreen at all times: it is your shield against the sun’s fiery attack on your skin. Also, in cold weather, apply a great moisturizer just before bundling up- your skin will be protected by a lipid barrier and the layers of clothes will keep your body warm, allowing the oils and nutrients to absorb beautifully into your skin. And socks on top of moisturized feet at bedtime make for a pedicure unparalleled.
4. Apply antioxidants topically, regularly: Vitamins A, C, E, and green tea will fortify your army and give you an extra measure of strength. Think of them as the General Schwarzkopfs of your army. They will be your “left hook” strategy against the F.R.R.
5. Moisturize.  With REAL moisturizers- no duds: Never imagine that your body produces enough oil for your face. Even for the oily -skinned, you must replenish that lipid layer. The body can’t do it alone. Oils that mimic the body’s natural sebum are jojoba, coconut, avocado, argan, and olive to name a few. And these oils are high in natural anti-fungal and antioxidant properties, as well as naturally dissolve oxidized lipids lying on top of the skin, giving your defense extra strength.

Now:  Practice your battle cry and Go Get Them F.R.R.s!!!!

Keri Lehmann is a licensed cosmetologist who used her knowledge of skin care to create a line of body care products made with REAL ingredients that the body recognizes and knows what to do with…Savvy Bohème: Welcome to the Most Authentic Moisturizing Event of Your Day.

Keri Lehmann